Garment or Fabric of Assam

Garment or Fabric of Assam

Assam is known for its weaves but also for its silk. Silk is the "queen of fabrics". Its strength, lustre, softness and graceful fall make it the most attractive of all textiles. No other natural fibrecan rival its versatility.

Muga

Muga Silk (Pic. Source Google)

This golden yellow silk is unique to India.Muga is spun by the worm Antheraeaassama which feeds on som and arjun tree leaves. It is known for its natural shimmering golden color and its sumptous, sensual look. The most expensive silk,muga is woven into the cultural traditions of the Assamese people.Muga has the ability to absorb moisture better than any others it’s very durable due to highest tensile strength. Muga is available in shades of natural gold.The golden colour and shine increase with every hand wash.Muga silk is commercially available only from India. While it has a naturally golden lustre and does not need dyeing, it is compatible with most dyes.

Mulberry

Mulberry silk ( Pic. Source Google)

Mulberry silk is exclusively obtained from the silkworm of Bombyxmori moth. The worm feeds only on the leaves of the mulberry plant. Mulberry silk is also known as pure silk.The Indian mulberry is comparatively softer in texture, very smooth, strong with a shimmering lustre.Mulberry silk can be fabricated into the most versatile designs and is available in a wide range of rich shades. It is lightweight and drapes well.

Eri

Eri Silk

Eri is derived from the Assamese word 'era', for castor as the silkworm feeds on Castor plants. Eri is a multivoltine silk spun from open-ended cocoons.The fabric’s texture is coarse, fine and dense with a matte finish and intrinsic sheen.It is strong, durable and elastic. Eri is wooly white colored or reddish, non-mulberry silk fabric, which is known as Ahima silk or the fabric of peace; also known for its warmth.

Tasar

Tasar Silk

Tussar or Tasar Silk is one of the commercial silk in India. Available naturally in shades of muted gold and mild beige, it is a fine, durable fabric. Also known as kosa silk, it is highly valued for its purity and linear weaving texture. Antheraeamylitta and Antheraeaproylei are the two main tussar silkworms that feedon the leaves of arjun and salto produce the Tussar silk.Tussar silk is used for furnishing,dress materials, sarees and other garments. It is also blended with other kinds of silk, wool, cotton etc to manufacture different fabrics. Tussar is considered ideal as well as auspicious for marriages, religious ceremonies and other functions.

Assam Tribles Tradition

Assam Tribles Tradition

Bodo Tribe 

Bodo Tribe

  

     The Bodo Tribe of Assam reside amidst the lush greenery from Bodoland Territorial Council upto Karbialong. The women folk wear colorful handwoven attire known as Dokhna. This covers the whole body from chest down to the ankleand its length and breadth are made in such a way that it can be tied one round at a time around the waist. This dressis anidentifying feature. Dokhna are often embellished with different types of agororphul or embroidered flowers. Dokhnas are of various types– the ones without agoror embroidery are Salamatha or math. Women wear another garment called Jumgra (Scarf) which is wrapped around the body’s upper portion.

                                                       

      Aronai is a small Scarf, the sing of Bodo Tradition and is used to felicitate guest with honors, as a gift. In ancient period Bodo warriors used Aronai as a belt in the battle field. At the time of the war, Bodo women would weave Aronai within a single night and present it to the warrior as they set out for the battlefield. Bodo people usually wear cloth of indigenous product.

                                                         Dimasa 

   Dimasa tribe dress is very simlar to Bodos. The men and women of Dimasa wear clothes woven on householdlooms. The women wear Rigu, a skirt-like garmentusually made of silk or endi. On top, they wear a vest-like cloth, called Rijamphai. They also wear a garment called Rikhaosa while dancing. The Dimasa men wear costumes called Rica or Dhuni. They sport beautifully designed scarves known as Rinsaso. The men often wear turbans woven from pure cotton or Endi and which are 19 meters in length.

   Dimasa women are excellent weavers. They weave clothes which are simple as well as those with very high artistic merit. Most of the domestic requirements of clothes are met by the family looms. Spinning and weaving is confined to the womenand are considered obligatory duties of Dimasa women and girls. It is mandatory for a girl to weave her own wedding garment. The traditional loom is called ‘daophang’ and weaving is called “Daophang Dauba”. The bride carries the “Dauphang” to her in-laws house after marriage, not for her in-laws’use but for her own personal use. This is passed dowm from mother to daughter or nearest female relatives of her own female clan or ‘Jahdi’.

   The designs (Rikhu) woven into the Dimasa fabrics are unique. These patterns are made by tying the threads and then wovenin the usual way. So, when you touch any Dimasapattern, it appears very thick and has a 3D look and feel. Unlike designs (pari) of other communities which usually are of one or two colours, the Dimasas add three or more colours, thus creating multicoloured patterns. 

                                                                     Thai Phake Tribe 

    A Thai Phake woman uses a striped girdle, called Chin which stretches from the waist down to the ankles. She covers her upper body with a multi-coloured blouse, called Chekhamchum.A cloth belt with a 6 cm width and a 1.5 mlength called Chairchin encircles her waistDuring weddings, this Chaddar acts as the customary veil of the bride. 

   The Thai Phake manwears a chequered green loin cloth, with black stripes and red, yellow or white lining, called Fatong. He matches his Fatongwith a shirt called Sho. He also wears a white turban called Fa ho ho. For special occasions, the Thai Phake man adorns himself in a white shirt with long sleeves, enriched with a plain bordered white shawl called Fafekmai.

                                                                                Rabha Tribe

   The wear typical costumes known as koumkontong that are woven by women on the back-strap loom. These are usually very elegant and Akambang covers the upper part of the body like a stole. Rabha women also adorn themselves with colourful blouses that they make themselves. The women also wear a delicate belt made of several, small conch shells or pearl balls around their abdomen – the labok. 

                                                                                      Karbi Tribe,

  The traditional dresses of the Karbi people are designed very attractively by the adept Karbi weavers. Karbi women wear a short piece of cloth tied around the waist like a Mekhelaknown as Pinicamflak. Pe-kok and jar-ek is upper garment of the Karbi ladies. They wear a colorful striped Endi scarf called Khongjari during winters

                                                     

                                            
                                        Missing Tribe

  Mising women wear the Sampa around the waist. Married women wear an additional length of cloth the around the hip. The upper portion of the body remains covered by Galuk. The women also adorn themselves with headdress called Hura.The men wear white dhoti as the lower garment and a white bush shirt as the upper garment. They also wear a turban. The men also wear a cover coat with parallel and stripe design known as Mibu. 

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                                         Aronai Music is a platform to provide Music and Fashion Tips

Indigenous Fashion of Assam is Colourful, Rich and comes from Various Tribes.

Indigenous Fashion of Assam is Colourful, Rich and comes from Various Tribes.

An Indigenous Fashion of Assam is Colourful, Rich and comes from Various Tribes.d caption

Origin and History

"Assam is a state of living aesthetics", sys Ahana Majumdar, Associate Professor at National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kolkata. "The bright colours on monochromes, the distinctive motifs, the unique textures and of course, the accessories add up to a visual that is rich and vibrant." The indigenous clothing tradition of Assam is colourful and rich- a result of the coming together and amalgamation of the culture and clothings of various tribes.
 
     Assam is primarily identified by rich silk fabrics- Muga, Mulberry and Eri the beautiful Mekhla Sadar  along with the coulor and punch of the traditional cloths of the various tribes. With its roots in the Mughal period of  the 1600's the patronage of the royalty nurtured the development of the unique characteristics of Assam's clothing traditions.

      Assam is importance to the fabrics of India and is famous for tribes and sub tribes, silk handlooms, tea gardens, paddy fields, groves of coconuts, banana and areca nuts trees. Assam is one of India's developed states which has yet managed to retain its rich culture and has contributed to the diversity of Indian culture- be it lifestyle, religion or clothing. This is reflected most vibrantly in the traditional attires of the people of Assam. The fabrics, the clothing, the styling - all reflect the essence of India.

The fabrics, garments and style of Assam

   Every region has its own unique traditional dresses which reflect the culture of its various communities which then become the identifying foctors for these places. Traditional dress are living haritage - passed down from generation to generation and preserved with care.

   The most recognized traditional dress of Assam is the 'Mekhla Sadar'. This comprises two main pieces of cloth that are draped around the body. The Mekhla is the long cylindrical skirt down to the ankles and Sadar is the upper wrap. The Riha is folded into pleats to fit around the waist anfd tucked in to the mekhla and its worn around a blouse. The Sadar is worn in a criss-cross pleated form, or in a hand-kerchief fold down the front. The fluid folds of the Riha lend graceto the coplete garment. Assamese women, irrespective of tribes and clan, wear variations of this.

     Coming to the fabrics, Mekhla Sadar is woven in coarse or fine cotton for regular use but during fastivals and special occations, garments in Assam's famous indigenous silk such as eri, pat and muga are worn with pride.

     Assamese men dress themselves in Dhoti (a loincloth), a shirt called Sola or Fotua and Sadar, made from Endi (a blend of silk and cotton). When working in the fieldsm farmer wear a hat called Japi. Another article of great signification to the Assamese people is the Gamosa. Literally translated, this means some thing to wipe the body with (Ga=body, mosa=to wipe); but interpreting this to mean just the bodywiping towel is inaccurate. Gamosa refers a white rectungular piece of cloth with primarily a red border or three sides and red woven motifs on the fourth (in additional to red, other coulors are also used).

Awi Bajwi

Awi Bajwi
Do Wacth New Bodo Modern Bwisagu Music Video by Kailas Basumatary
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